Our modern colored oils reflect the rich color diversity of nature. They make it possible to color domestic wood species and to give furniture surfaces, stair treads or parquet floors in bedrooms and living rooms, in the kitchen or in restaurants or retail spaces an individual touch. However, there are a few things to consider when coloring with oil, and it requires craftsmanship.
High Expectations
Coloring wood surfaces is a highly demanding craft that should be reserved for professional applicators. The expectations for colored surfaces are extremely high and are shaped by the availability of industrially coated surfaces. Oil coloring is not simple and should be carried out with appropriate care to achieve a flawless surface result.
Sanding - The Be-all and End-all
The demands on the sanding pattern are extremely high, and sanding errors are significantly emphasized by colored oils! Therefore, the sanding must always be carried out cleanly and very evenly. Furthermore, the sanding should not be too coarse, as otherwise the color application will overemphasize the traces of the sandpaper. On the other hand, it should not be too fine, as the colored oil will then not be able to penetrate deeply enough into the wood.
White Effects
White colorations, such as polar white or white-washed, are a general exception. To achieve a white-washed or limewashed effect, the wood surface should not be sanded too finely. Only then can the white pigments penetrate deeply into the surface.
The "OLI-NATURA Oils & Waxes" in the "White Washed" version contain white pigments that counteract the darkening of the wood. However, the appearance of the wood is lightened (whitewashed), the pores are subtly colored white and stand out on the surface. The "OLI-NATURA Oils & Waxes" in the "Polar White" version have a higher proportion of white pigments, so that a significant lightening of the wood is achieved. However, when manually applying white coloring, one must always point out the differences to industrially whitened wood: It is difficult to compare with industrial possibilities.
Consider Wood Type
Of course, it depends on the wood itself. The color shade achieved on an oiled object largely depends on the base tone of the wood, as well as the type of wood and its condition. Especially with very absorbent beech, there is a risk that the resulting surface will be patchy and uneven. The same applies to very dense and light woods, especially if they are to be darkly pigmented. The color differences between the actual wood and the desired color shade should not be too great. Coarse-pored oak or ash behave more favorably because small imperfections in the wood structure disappear.
Coloring
The most important principle is that the coloring is applied thinly and evenly. Furthermore, the colored oil should only be processed at room temperature and shaken well before use. To avoid color differences, containers from different batches must also be mixed well before use. On furniture surfaces, the colored oil is best applied with a brush in the direction of the grain. For large areas such as parquet floors, rolling has proven effective. It is processed from a bucket with a roller grid. Puddles and excessive application quantities should definitely be avoided, as the excess is very difficult to absorb. Special attention should also be paid to this in the joint area. If the joints are not sufficiently sealed, they will stand out clearly and can also lead to considerable drying delays. To obtain an even, seamless, and cloud-free coloring, careful work must be done with a single-disc machine and pad. Work should always be done "wet" and until the surface appears dry.
Protection and Care
Unlike smoking or thermal treatment, oil coloring does not result in a consistent coloration, but only a coloring of the uppermost wood layers. This means that deep scratches or dents into the uncolored wood layers should be avoided as much as possible, as otherwise the light wood will show through. However, fine scratches can be partially touched up. A possible color difference will equalize over time. Therefore, always keep the processed colored oil in its original sealed container for any repair work, as shades and formulations may change. Once a coloring has been chosen, this decision is no longer reversible after coloring. Even with the most careful sanding, the coloring can never be removed without residue. This is less of a problem with light-colored floors, but with dark shades, one will always have to resort to a coloring again.
OLI-NATURA HS Profiöl, colored: High-solid pigment oils with a solids content of 95%. After curing, almost 100% of the oil remains in the wood, ensuring excellent durability. Colors and protects with just one oil application - now available in 10 new designer colors. Whether with or without hardener - this emission-tested high-solid colored oil brings current color inspirations from architecture, interior design, and craftsmanship to wooden floors, furniture, and stairs. Naturally beautiful, healthy for living, and efficient to apply. The color effects are rather rustic and emphasize the pores. Due to their high solids content, high-solid pigment oils are also "slower" to process and therefore must be massaged in by hand with a pad or with a polishing machine. This is the only way to achieve maximum wood saturation.
The long open time offers plenty of scope for polishing - a real advantage, especially on larger surfaces. The low viscosity ensures pleasant and easy handling, while the fast curing time is impressive even without hardener. In combination with OLI-NATURA Hardener (mixing ratio 10:1), the curing time is significantly shortened, and the surface resistance increases.
The certified quality is emission-tested, DIBt-certified, and TRGS-compliant - ideal for professional indoor use.
OLI-NATURA Projektöl, colored: Pigment oil with a solids content of 60%, which protects from within. It does not form a surface layer, but rather an open-pored impregnation. The oil contains isoparaffin and therefore penetrates very well into the wood. For this reason, it has become particularly popular in carpentry and is especially used for the colored base treatment of furniture surfaces. Even a second application does not intensify the color.
